While the Spring Summer 2023 from Baum und Pferdgarten paid homage to the timeless style of Parisian women, the Pre–Autumn 2023 collection celebrates the city and its fashion after dark. “Bonsoir Paris” captures the glitz and glamour of a night in Paris, mixed with the effortless nonchalance of French women. The creative team found inspiration in the work of master couturier Yves Saint Laurent: from his signature androgynous style to his use of print and colour. Embracing his amalgamation of menswear tailoring and womenswear, pieces with a masculine reference play an important role in the styling of the collection, adding a hard edge to delicate fabrics and florals.
The collection sets off in a palette of softs pastels juxtaposed with black and flashes of orange. An oversized evening jacket with matching tie, in a drapey baby-pink-and-black flower print is seen alongside a twinkling sequin skirt in breathtaking magenta. A pair of bermuda-meets-boxing shorts is rendered in high-shine patent leather, slits at the knee adding delicacy to an otherwise boxy silhouette. A floral brocade from the previous collection returns in a tangerine and black combination. The feminine and masculine are harmonious in a midnight blue bomber jacket, where utilitarian zipped sleeve pockets and quilted linings meets a tulip shaped hem and deliberate tailoring on the elbows and at the waist. In the shade of clementine, a knitted jersey tank top uses combinations of rib stitching to define the female form.
As the collection progresses, the colours become louder and the prints more bold, with shades of hot pink, bright green, white, and more black (it is Paris, after all). As with previous collections, jacquards replace prints, and some even get an exaggerated bubble-like surface. An abstract floral pattern, reminiscent of Monsieur Saint Laurent’s power dressing in the 80s, adorns a tulip-sleeved tea dress. Shown next is a faux leather car coat in candy pink; the bold feminine shade updating the iconic shape. An oversized blazer in a houndstooth adds a sharp graphic contrast to a slender cropped top in shimmering silver sequins. The sartorial icon of a Parisian woman – the Breton striped top – is reimagined on a sleeveless tee with a twisted front, and presented alongside an update on classic denim: washed jeans with cargo pockets and an elegantly tapered leg.
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