THE ROYAL BAUMGARTENS
Inspired by Wes Anderson’s film The Royal Tenenbaums, the Autumn Winter 2023 collection explores the iconic style of each character.
The influence that Wes Anderson’s films has had on the fashion world is well documented, as his precise colour palettes, memorable locations and intricate details are rich with inspiration. The Royal Tenenbaums has delivered outfit classics that are now timeless, such as Margot Tenenbaum’s long mink coat and tennis dress combination, Chas Tenenbaum’s red tracksuit and Richie Tenenbaum’s tennis-wear-made-formal look.
However, it was not only the aesthetic and fashion of the film that inspired the creative team, it was also the character’s stories, dysfunctions and quirks that informed the collection. Margot Tenenbaum’s mysterious allure provides the romantic and provocative pieces in the collection. Richie Tenenbaum’s sporting career and subsequent fall from grace, inspired the athletic pieces and made them wearable for the everyday, as Richie does himself. And Etheline Tenenbaum’s demure grace is seen in the elegantly refined styles in the collection.
The collection begins in a palette of scarlet red, white, rose pink and signature blue.
A high-gloss coated trench coat with traditional tailoring is presented in a red and black plaid with contrasting matte panels at the collar, cuffs and pockets. Next we see a billowing dress with a slight metallic sheen adorned with an abstract flower print. A pair of washed jeans with the house initials embroidered on the back pockets is shown next to a rose pink jumper with an asymmetrical braided front, hinting at the tender, feminine side of Margot Tenenbaum’s character. A softly structured cropped blazer is woven with an updated polka dot pattern, reminiscent of tennis balls.
As the season progresses, the colours become moodier and we see brown, grey, tie-dyed pastel green and black. A house icon, the faux shearling jacket, is presented in muted brown to hint at Margot Tenenbaum’s long mink coat. The striped shirt,
a staple in any wardrobe, is updated with ruching at the waist to create a feminine structure. We see a whisper of Royal Tenenbaum himself in a Prince of Wales check mini skirt, tailored for a playful silhouette. A pair of yellow and brown faux snakeskin trousers create the opportunity for statement styling, particularly when placed with an oversized grey knit adorned with acid yellow tennis balls, in homage to Richie Tenenbaum’s tennis career.
Woven into the final portion of the collection are pops of colour: striking magenta, bold black and white, and soft teal. Chas Tenenbaum’s recogniseable tracksuit is remade in a blue and white pinstripe; shown on a drapey cropped jacket and finished with a contrasting red badge embroidered with a set of tennis rackets and the Baum und Pferdgarten logo. A cream jacquard knit with black roses calls to the forbidden romances told in the film, seen alongside a translucent black sequin lace skirt that evokes Margot Tenenbaum’s enigmatic expression. A muted teal dress with a delicately crinkled surface and gathered ruching on the front is designed to reveal the female form. Injecting that boost of colour that the brand is so known for is a magenta puffer coat, adding a bold voluminous statement.
Embracing Anderson’s philosophy of allowing the characters to be true to themselves, the collection invites the wearer to authentically express themselves through their sartorial display.
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