For the Pre-Spring 2023 collection, Baum und Pferdgarten found inspiration in Paris where one of the most iconic landmarks, the Arc de Triomphe was breathtakingly wrapped posthumously by Christo — seemingly to reveal the true shape of the historic monument. Departing from his artistic approach, the creative team of Baum und Pferdgarten soon turned their attention to the work of Madame Grès, deeply fascinated by her mesmerising legacy of draping the female body in a manner not unsimilar to that of Christo. Using their signature work as the starting point for the collection, the focus became the wrapping and revealing of the female form.
The signature pieces in this collection begin in a palette of rich and bright colours, calling for the beginning of spring. A red top with delicate straps detailed with button fastenings at the neck and precise ruching at the sides directly reference Madame Grès’ work, placed alongside a flowing cornflower blue dress with similar construction and attention to detail. A blouse rendered in a metallic Liberty flower print is fashioned with balloon sleeves that gather midway on the arm to create a refined voluminous shape. Next, a cable knit cardigan with cottage-core qualities is adorned with delicate handmade flowers in orange, pink and green; reflecting the colour palette. To compliment these strong silhouettes, a low-waisted mini skirt in striking orange satin offers the chance for contemporary styling.
As the collection progresses, the palette becomes more neutral, with tones of grey, white and blue — punctuated with flashes of acidic green. Signature styles include an oversized blazer with menswear references in grey with a midnight blue pinstripe. Continuing with the oversized form is a pair of jeans with front pleats to create volume, finished with frayed, raw edging on the pockets — where the unfinished qualities create a contrast to the preciseness of the body conscious pieces in the collection. Reworking an iconic house signature style, a faux shearling vest in acidic green is the perfect transitional piece for the season, and presents the chance for creative layering. Next, a billowing dress in an updated reptile print is rendered on a metallic fabric. Finished with balloon sleeves and an open back, the dress balances a strong print with a bold silhouette — a classic house code. Calling back to the work of Madame Grès is a t-shirt printed with an intricate illustration of a ruched bodice; the delicacy of the bodice illustration juxtaposing itself against the boyish silhouette of the t-shirt, and speaks toone of the core elements of Baum und Pferdgarten’s DNA: the overtly feminine versus menswear characteristics.
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